Helmut Lang - menswear

Japanese designer Naoki Takizawa, who took over Issey Miyake after the avant-garde designer's retirement in 1997, was recently named head of menswear at Helmut Lang.

Below is an interview with the new designer of menswear of a brand I love. It will be interesting to watch what he does over the next couple of seasons.

Q&A: Naoki Takizawa of Helmut Lang

You were previously menswear designer at Issey Miyake. How do you think designing for Helmut Lang will be different?
Each brand has a different DNA. Issey Miyake gave volume to menswear. His goal was to convert the lifestyle. But Helmut Lang created a silhouette that was very slim. I respect the DNA of both, and I really have great respect for both designers because they both transformed menswear.

How familiar were you with the Helmut Lang label back when Helmut Lang was still designing?
In the late 80's, I was actually a big customer. The first time I saw his product in a boutique, I immediately picked up the jeans and the middle gauge knitwear—it had this sense of freedom and was such a novel look. The ideas were so simple, and I became a big fan.

How do you want to bring Helmut Lang into 2010?
It's interesting because the black suit that he created in the 90's still works today—black suits have now become a staple in the market. I don't want to touch that original identity of Helmut Lang—I'd rather adapt the concept to today. I think people have changed from the 90's. They want something more relaxed than rigid. So I'd like to take some of those original ideas and use today's new technologies and materials to move forward.

What kinds of materials?
We produce materials in Japan like a special brand of polyester cotton. It's very lightweight and easy to take care of, which makes it a lot more relevant to men's lifestyles today. I also think that men are so active in their days that I want to design work-ready slim suits that stretch and can be washed in a machine. I also want to use materials that can adapt to any weather, whether it's heat or rain or a typhoon. There is this polyester that I will have to alter because it's too shiny, and our development team is hard at work to create these materials.

What kinds of challenges do you think you'll face?
Now, the market is changing with the Internet. The mind of the customer has changed. Helmut Lang in the 90's was a luxury brand with very expensive clothes, but now Helmut Lang must adjust to the contemporary market. People need good quality and design, and a good price. We're also thinking about the production system and improving everything from the factory to the sewing, so we can create the best product at the best price.

And what do you like to wear?
You know, I really wear jeans, shirts, and jackets. In the summer I like to put on military wear, like a U.S. Air Force jacket. It's really all about comfort to me. Nothing fancy!