mADE IN ny

In New York, city of eight million, it can be hard to reach a consensus on anything, but for five designers who live, work, and play within the five boroughs, theirs (and ours) is the only city that will suffice for the production of their garments. Thanks to the (relatively) recent revival of all things Americana and a little research on the part of bloggers as devoted to good menswear as they are intrepid, it’s getting easier to mark those goods Made in the U.S.A. These brands are doing us one better by doing it local.

CRF: How is the city of New York, where you design and manufacture your goods, reflected in the clothes?

EL: The brand was born in downtown NYC. I have been heavily influenced by the guys who live, work, and hang out in my neighborhood. They are a step ahead of the curve. Confident. Creative. Hard-working. Fun. I think the downtown/Brooklyn NYC guy puts himself together in a way that is really inspiring for me and the collection.

RD: The city never ceases to inspire, what with its endless energy, culture, design, and personality, all of which have contributed to our design process. Conversely, each edition has been designed and constructed for fast-paced, well-coiffed, city living.

AB/MK: Our collection is very New York and East Coast. Like the city, it has a strong kinship with the UK and Europe. It’s not only stylish – it’s very practical and long-wearing. It has to be, especially given our mass transit. I mean, there are huge rats running on the subway tracks whenever it rains. You’re not going to wear a white suit down there. You need good clothing that wears well and takes a bit of a beating.

MR: On daily rides I check every person’s footwear and kit, or I can’t get off the train.

CRF: For what reasons do you believe the trend for American heritage brands and construction have become so prominent in the past couple of years?

EL: This look has gathered so much steam because of the internet. Heritage brands have been dug up by blogs. What also made it so easy for guys everywhere is that the clothing is actually really approachable. It is stuff you stole from your dad’s closet. There’s history to the details and history makes it all interesting. The clothing is really handsome! You can also still find these vintage pieces because they were so well made. Hunting jackets and work wear! They were built to last – and they still work today! The look is also spreading internationally. I think there’s something about all things American that is still “cool” all over the world.

RD: Obama, plain and simple. It’s no longer embarrassing to be an American now that the Bush era is over. Having lived and traveled abroad quite a bit, I’ve found anti-American sentiments – amongst friends and strangers alike – to have died down quite significantly since Obama took office. And his suits are nice and trim, for the most part.

AB/MK: We see three reasons for this:  One: Menswear – like all fashion – is cyclical. The Americana and preppy looks are constants which rotate in and out of fashion. Wayfarers are a good bellwether. They come in and go out of fashion every decade or so. Two: It’s very recession-friendly. Heritage brands are seen as a good investment. The styles are classic, versatile, and long-lasting. Their long history is comforting. It’s also quite affordable. While $400 for a Barbour jacket isn’t cheap, it’s a bargain compared to a nylon windbreaker from the likes of Dolce & Gabbana. The political aspect of support US-based production and workers plays a large role as well – especially in urban areas.
Three: It’s become the new direction for “streetwear.” Many of the guys who wore Supreme, Nike Dunks, 10 Deep, etc., are now interested in more classic styles. Brands like 10 Deep and Dave’s Quality Meat are now putting out oxford shirts. They’re attracted to the quality of these garments. These days there are a lot of young people interested in this style.

In the short term, heritage brands stand to gain a lot of new business and customers. For the better ones, this trend will hopefully leave a legacy of goodwill. We believe that Alden is one of the best footwear makers in the world. Many young guys buying Indy Boots this year will probably be onto a new style a few years from now. But the quality and comfort are there so they’ll most likely stick with Alden when they need a new pair of leather or casual dress shoes. It’s great that the emphasis on Americana has shed light on a lot of well-deserving firms.

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